
The current Alaafin of Oyo, Làmídì Oláyíwolá Adéyemí III sitting on his throne inside the royal chambers in Oyo city.
Although Nigeria is a democracy–in fact we are in the middle of a presidential election right now–kings still exist in Yorubaland today. Each Yoruba city has one, but you do not just call him “king”, each one has his own particular name.
There is the Aláàfin of Òyó, the Oba of Benin, the Oòni of Ifè, Sòún of Ògbómòsó, the Awùyalè of Ìjèbú, the Aláké of Ègbá, the Oba of Èkó, the Òsemàwé of Ondó and so on. Aláàfin means one who owns the palace, aáfin. Today, the Aláàfin owns the palace in Oyo but he is not responsible for much more than that. When the British arrived in Nigeria in 1861 they established a new governing system that greatly reduced the Aláàfin and every other kings’ power.The Aláàfin’s word used to be law. In the 16th-18th centuries, the Aláàfin of Òyó was the most powerful king out of the list because he the ruled the strongest, most expansive empire in all of Yorubaland (what is presently southwest Nigeria)–– the Oyo Empire. He had privileges no other citizen or official enjoyed. He could marry or gbesele any woman he pleased no matter if she was already married. In theory he was an absolute ruler. Other names for the Aláàfin include Kábíyèsí (the unquestionable ruler) iku baba yeye (one who can command death), ekeji orisha (second to the gods) Alashe (one with the authority). However, he relied on a council of seven kingmakers called the Oyo Mèsí which means Òyó mó èsí (the Oyo people who know the answer), to advise and legitimize his decisions.
These days (since British arrival), the king’s role is somewhat ambiguous, a fusion of monarchial traditional rule and foreign imported government. The state government and the governor have replaced the Aláàfin as the authority on political matters where he used to have control. Before British arrival, the Aláàfin’s court was the court of appeals in the land. All civil or criminal cases would be tried and decided there. Today his court deals with petty customary situations. The king used to collect taxes from all the citizens in Oyo. Today, the Aláàfin does not have a role in the constitution; the state government pays his monthly salary.

No shoes allowed in the Alaafin's greeting courtyard. Everyone who meets the Alaafin must have bare feet except for him.
The present Aláàfin of Òyó is Làmídì Oláyíwolá Adéyemí III. He was born in 1938 into the Adéyemí Alówólódù of the Aláàfin of Oyo dynasty. His father, Adéníran Adéyemí II was the Alaafin from 1945 until 1955 when was sent into exile by Chief Obáfémi Awólówò’s political party.

The current Aláàfin of Oyo, Lamidi Olayiwola Adeyemi III on his throne with another one on the left side, in the colors of the Nigerian flag.
Meeting the Aláàfin of Oyo was surely an interesting, memorable experience. I mean it’s not everyday you meet a king. I just wish that I knew all I know now three months ago when I got on my knees on the deep red carpet in the sepia toned room, bowed my head and said “Kábíyèsí!”

All of our students sat in big cushioned armchairs on one side of the aisle while the Oyo Mesi and other guests sat across waiting for the formal meeting to commence.

Contrast of the dimly lit king's chambers resplendent with intricate wood wall carvings to the intense sun and heat outside.